BTS reunited for a performance on Saturday night, marking their first group appearance in years and the debut of their album 'Arirang'. The group's wardrobe for the event featured custom designs by Korean designer Jay Songzio's label, Songzio.
The 'Lyrical Armor' Collection
The collection, titled 'Lyrical Armor,' incorporated traditional Korean dress and early Joseon-era armor. These historical elements were reinterpreted through sculptural silhouettes and a monochromatic color palette.
The designs were intended to integrate with the performance's narrative, portraying BTS members as modern cultural figures.
Each member – RM, Jin, Suga, J-Hope, Jimin, V, and Jungkook – was assigned a unique archetype within this visual narrative.
Collaborative Design Process
Hybe, BTS's entertainment company, approached Songzio two months prior to the comeback. They sought a brand that emphasized Korean aesthetics for the historically significant 'Arirang' album. Songzio described a deeply collaborative design process, involving extensive exchanges with Hybe and the individual BTS members. The creative brief centered on developing a theme and story around each member.
From 'Han' to Heroic Figures
The initial concept for 'Lyrical Armor' aimed to translate emotional healing, particularly the Korean emotion of 'han' (sorrow and longing), into the collection. Songzio envisioned the members as heroic figures, which naturally led to armor-like clothing. This concept was later blended with fluidity to accommodate performance needs, drawing inspiration from the natural drape of hanbok, traditional Korean garments.
Member Archetypes and Input
Each member's distinct personality influenced their assigned archetype:
- RM as the hero
- Jin as the artist
- Suga as the architect
- J-Hope as the sorigun (sound man)
- Jimin as the poet
- V as the seonbi (nobleman)
- Jungkook as the vanguard
Members actively participated in the design process, providing feedback on crucial details such as colors and accessories.
Performance Adaptations and Broader Scope
Given the outdoor venue at Gwanghwamun Square, the designs incorporated transformative details. Multi-layered garments were a key feature, allowing for dynamic changes during the performance.
The project extended significantly beyond BTS members, with Songzio's team also designing costumes for approximately 80 additional performers.
This included traditional dancers, instrumentalists, and singers. These broader designs blended traditional hanbok with modern, often asymmetrical, elements and featured a contrasting color palette of red and linen white.
Designer's Perspective and Future
Songzio noted that the collaboration reinforced the brand's commitment to showcasing Korean aesthetics boldly. Discussions are currently underway for Songzio to potentially design costumes for BTS's upcoming concert tour. This potential role would extend beyond the members to include general costume design. Final adjustments, including ornamental additions and distressed fabric effects inspired by Korean landscape painting, were meticulously made leading up to the performance.