A climbing incident on Denali (Mount McKinley), North America's tallest peak at approximately 20,310 feet (6,190 meters), has resulted in three deaths and one critical injury, according to multiple reports. The incident occurred on Wednesday, July 14, near Denali Pass on the West Buttress route.
The Incident
The fall occurred at approximately 18,200 feet (5,547-5,550 meters) near Denali Pass. The four climbers were part of a seven-person Latvian expedition, as reported by the Latvian Mountaineering Association. The three other members of the group attended to those who fell and then returned to their camp near high camp at approximately 17,000-17,200 feet (5,181-5,240 meters).
"The traverse between high camp and Denali Pass is known as the 'Autobahn.'"
Rescue Operations
Initial Response
Rescue efforts were delayed due to weather conditions, including low cloud ceilings and limited visibility. Scott Carr, a spokesperson for Denali National Park and Preserve, stated that authorities were awaiting a "weather window" to safely conduct helicopter operations.
Evacuation of the Critically Injured Climber
The fourth climber, who fell and survived, was evacuated from the mountain on Thursday afternoon. Denali National Park and Preserve search and rescue personnel used a helicopter long-line to extract the climber from approximately 17,200 feet. The rescue method was required due to terrain conditions and insufficient landing space. The climber was airlifted to a hospital and is reported to be in critical condition.
Evacuation of Remaining Group Members
The three group members who provided initial assistance later experienced declining physical conditions. They were evacuated from the mountain on Friday. Park service officials stated they have been in contact with these three climbers.
Separate Incident
On Wednesday, two climbers from a different, unrelated incident were evacuated from the mountain by helicopter around 11:00 p.m. No additional information about that incident has been provided.
Background on the Route
The fall occurred on the West Buttress route, which is the most popular path to the summit. Reports from the National Park Service and other sources indicate that many climbing injuries and deaths have occurred in this area, primarily from unprotected falls, particularly during descents.
Park rangers and mountain guides install and maintain snow pickets between high camp and Denali Pass to serve as anchors. Climbers are advised to carry their own pickets for additional protection.
Climbing Season and Statistics
The typical climbing season for Denali begins in late April and continues into mid-July. As of Thursday, 516 climbers were on the mountain. Approximately 1,000 to 1,200 climbers attempt the summit each year, mostly in May and June. The climb typically takes about 17 days, with fewer than half of attempts reaching the summit.
According to available historical data, more than 130 deaths have occurred on the mountain in the park's history. In June 2024, a climber died after falling 3,000 feet while ascending the West Buttress route. In 2012, four Japanese climbers died after a shallow avalanche pushed them into a crevasse.
Official Statements
Scott Carr stated that additional information would be released "if and when it becomes appropriate." The National Park Service released a statement saying:
"This remains an active incident. The National Park Service is focused on rescue operations and notification of family members."