Abdul's Lebanese Restaurant Closes After Decades in Sydney's 'Little Lebanon'

Abdul's Lebanese Restaurant, a renowned establishment in inner Sydney since 1968, has officially ceased operations. Founded by Dib and Nizam Ghazal, the restaurant was named after their eldest son, Abdul, who later managed it alongside his brothers.

From Sweets to Sydney Icon

A Family's Culinary Journey

The journey of Abdul's began as a humble Lebanese sweets shop. It was later transformed by the founders into a popular falafel sandwich stand. According to Hiba Damaa, daughter of the founders, her mother initially prepared all Lebanese bread from scratch due to its unavailability at the time. Over the years, the business steadily expanded from a small falafel stand to a full-fledged dine-in establishment, eventually opening a second location.

Abdul Ghazal's Dedication and Generosity

Abdul Ghazal was a central figure in the restaurant's operations, widely known for his unwavering dedication to customer satisfaction. His daughter, Dina Ghazal, highlighted his commitment:

"He prioritized pleasing patrons, rarely taking time off, and maintained high standards for the business."

Abdul Ghazal insisted on labor-intensive menu items to ensure quality and was often seen offering free falafel to customers waiting in line. He firmly believed that generosity was a crucial ingredient for success in the competitive food industry.

The Heart of 'Little Lebanon'

A Community Hub

Abdul's was situated in an area of inner-south Sydney once affectionately known as 'Little Lebanon', which served as a vibrant hub for the Lebanese community. John Betros, a 91-year-old local, vividly recalled that by the 1960s, many homes on Great Buckingham Street were occupied by Lebanese families, drawn by the presence of established Lebanese churches. Early Lebanese restaurants, including Wilson's (1957) and Abdul's, catered to migrants and eventually attracted a broader clientele, leading to a cluster of Lebanese eateries and a grocery store in the vicinity.

Friendly Rivalry

Betros observed that despite the close competition, proprietors in the area maintained friendly and respectful relationships. This sentiment was confirmed by Dina Ghazal, who noted that her father viewed the concentrated activity and competition as mutually beneficial.

Adapting to Change, Facing Challenges

Evolving Offerings and Atmosphere

As the customer base diversified, so too did the restaurant's offerings. Some establishments in the area even incorporated belly dancers for special functions. Eleanor Sharman, a former belly dancer at a nearby restaurant, noted the distinct interactions between Western and Middle Eastern patrons. Abdul's itself was cherished for its "beautiful, happy atmosphere," characterized by Arabic music, lively parties, and occasional dancing that would continue late into the night.

A Legacy Ends, For Now

Abdul Ghazal passed away nine years ago. At the time of its recent closure, the restaurant was managed by his cousin, Omar Ghazal. Abdul's reportedly entered liquidation, though there is an anticipation that it may reopen in the future.

Several factors have contributed to the decline of the local restaurant scene, impacting establishments like Abdul's. These include:

• Changing demographics
• Increasing rents
• Reduced footfall following the Covid-19 pandemic
• The inherently labor-intensive nature of traditional Lebanese food preparation
• High costs associated with fresh ingredients
• Customer expectations for low prices

Notably, Abdul Ghazal was also remembered for his willingness to adapt dishes to cater to Australian tastes, such as serving tomato sauce with hummus, prioritizing customer preferences over strict traditional authenticity.