Hugh Allen Makes History with Two Three-Hat Restaurants

Hugh Allen, 30, has become the first Australian chef to simultaneously lead two restaurants awarded three hats by the Good Food Guide. This achievement follows Yiaga, his new East Melbourne restaurant, receiving a three-hat rating, joining Vue de Monde, which Allen has led since 2022.

Hugh Allen's Unprecedented Achievement

Hugh Allen has achieved a notable position in Australian culinary history by simultaneously leading two restaurants, Vue de Monde and Yiaga, that have each been awarded three hats by the Good Food Guide.

In 2022, at the age of 27, Allen became the youngest chef in three decades to earn three hats for Vue de Monde.

His new establishment, Yiaga, recently received its three-hat rating in a review by Besha Rodell for Good Food. Yiaga’s Good Food score of 18 out of 20 is shared by four other Victorian venues, including Vue de Monde.

Leading two fine-dining kitchens simultaneously is a rare undertaking due to the extensive physical and creative demands associated with the role.

Yiaga Restaurant: Concept and Vision

Yiaga, meaning 'to seek and find' in Woiwurrung, opened in October last year in East Melbourne's Fitzroy Gardens, on the former site of Victorian-era tearooms. This marks Allen's first restaurant as an owner, established with financial backing from Far East Organization, which is also the parent company of Vue Group. While connected through ownership, Yiaga operates as a separate business entity from Vue de Monde, where Allen also serves as head chef.

The restaurant accommodates 44 guests and offers a 12-course Australian dining experience that typically spans approximately three to four hours. The cost for this experience is $295 per person, excluding beverages.

Design and Ambiance

The design of Yiaga was a collaboration involving architect John Wardle, who focused on Australian inspiration and aesthetics, and John Goulder, who contributed to specific design elements. The interior features 13,000 handmade clay tiles forming a continuous curved wall, along with flooring mixed with iron dust. Additional design elements include Tasmanian blackwood, brass, and moulded leather chairs. Custom-made artisan ceramics are used for various dishes.

The exterior design incorporates elements that acknowledge the surrounding Fitzroy Gardens, which are visible from the dining room. An open kitchen is a prominent feature within the space. The estimated cost for the planning and construction of the restaurant was over $10 million.

The Culinary Journey at Yiaga

The 12-course menu is characterized by acid-driven flavors, drawing inspiration from Australian landscapes and ingredients. The meal begins with a sorbet featuring sea parsley, finger lime, and olive oil.

Specific dishes mentioned include:

• Squid prepared in a broth of Thai basil and desert lime.
• Raw school prawns topped with torch ginger.
• A caviar dish incorporating coconut cream, water gel, and macadamia oil.
• Main courses cooked on an open flame, such as coral trout with crisp skin and a moist interior, served with mango.
• Kangaroo served rare with a gravy containing native peppers.

The dessert course includes a "Banksia Pop," a frozen item made from dark chocolate, chocolate caramel, and sesame caramel, shaped like a banksia husk and presented on a branch.

Critical Acclaim and Observations

Yiaga earned three hats upon its debut. Reviews noted that early operations experienced some inconsistencies in grill mastery, with instances of fish being overcooked and kangaroo being chewy; however, these aspects reportedly improved. Critiques were raised regarding the final petit-four, which was described as clumsy, and the "Banksia Pop" dessert, which was suggested could benefit from increased elegance.

At the time of review, the restaurant did not offer cocktails, though future plans to introduce them were indicated. The wine program was noted for its ambition and an observed unevenness, featuring both affordable local options and high-cost cult/European bottles, with a limited selection in the mid-range price point.

Despite these observations, the restaurant was identified as among the top establishments nationally, with its food characterized as personal, considered, and palatable.

The service was described as professional. The restaurant is highlighted for its distinct Australian character in its cuisine, design, and atmosphere. Staff cohesion was noted due to many team members having previously worked together.

Chef Hugh Allen: A Rising Star's Path

Hugh Allen began his apprenticeship at Rockpool Bar & Grill at the age of 16. At 20, he was named Gault & Millau Young Chef of the Year, an award that led to stages at three-Michelin-starred restaurants in Paris. He subsequently spent three years as a senior chef de partie at Noma in Copenhagen before becoming executive chef at Vue de Monde at 23.